You paddle out past the line of breakers where the waves are forming. You see a swell in the distance and you turn to paddle for it. The swell gets under you and you’re paddling as fast as you can. You’re at the exact spot and you pop up and find your feet on the board. However, you’re not just any type of surfer, you’re a big board surfer. So now, as your board settles under you and you’re flying down the face of the wave you’re not looking down over a sweet 6 foot right. You’re looking down the face of a monster that can only be found in select spots in the world: Mavericks, Waiehu Mea bay, places where legends are born. You’re gliding the face of a 3-4 story building.
You’re riding waves that make up the nightmares of beach goers and sailors for centuries. As a big board surfer, your gun allows you to slip into a triple overhead barrel that will stay with you for the rest of your life.
A big board should not get confused with a long board. These are two separate boards for two separate sports. A long board is for true soul surfing. With a big nose rider, as these huge long boards are called, are so buoyant that you catch almost any wave with them and you have the ability to stand at the tip of the nose with all of your toes hanging off. A total hang-10. But a big board is built for large surf. Not 8-10 feet, but more like 15 or 20 feet. A wave with the power of a bomb, and the ability to speed a rider as fast as 40 miles an hour. These boards are stabilized with strong bases, awesome shapes, and enough surface area to hit every bump and slip a wave of that magnitude can put out.







